This was cooked as the grain-category entry in the Feuerprobe / Trial by Fire 2019 competition at Festival of Elvegast.
The Source
Rumpolt’s Zugemüß 200:
“Nim Spenat / vnd quell jn / kül jn auß / vnd druck das Wasser wol davon / reib ein Weck darvnter vnnd Parmesankäß / auch Kerbelkraut / nim etliche Eyerdotter darvnter / ein wenig Jngwer / gestossen Muscatennüß / vnd frische Butter / hacks durcheinander / vnnd versaltz es nicht / schlags in einen Teig / der dünn außgetrieben / vnd fein durchsichtig ist / mach Krapffen darauß / nim ein wolgeschmackte Erbeßbrüh / thu ein wenig Muscatenblüt vnd frische Butter darein / laß auffsieden / vnd thu ein Krapffen nach dem andern hinein / laß damit sieden / thu grüne wolschmeckende Kräuter darein / so werden sie gut vnd wolgescmack. Vnnd wenn du es wilt trucken geben / so hebs auß der Brüh / vnd besträw es mit geriebenem Weck vnnd Parmesankäß / geuß heisse Butter darüber / so werden sie resch vnd gut. Also magstu es trucken geben mit der Brüh / so ist es auff beyde manier gut.”
“Take spinach / and parboil it / cool it off / and press the water well away / grate a weck bread under it and parmesan cheese / also chervil / take some egg yolks with it / a little ginger / ground mace / and fresh butter / chop together / and do not over salt it / wrap it in a dough / that is driven out (rolled out) thinly / and that is nicely transparent / make dumplings (ravioli) from it / take a well tasting pea broth / put a little mace and fresh butter in it / let simmer / and put the dumplings one after the other into it / let them simmer / put green well tasting herbs in there / then it will be good and well tasting. And if you want to give it dry / then lift them from the broth / and sprinkle them with grated bread and parmesan cheese / pour hot butter over it / so it becomes crispy and good. Therefor you might give it dry with the broth — as it is good in both manners.”
Discussion
This is a recipe most modern cooks recognize instantly as a fairly standard spinach ravioli. The filling is spinach, parmesan, breadcrumbs, butter, herbs, and egg yolks — almost exactly what a modern Italian recipe would call for, except that Rumpolt’s version uses butter and breadcrumbs to bulk and bind the filling where a modern recipe would use ricotta. The seasoning is the surprising part: ginger and mace. The mace has the same role that nutmeg does in a modern version, and the ginger adds a subtle warmth that’s hard to place if you don’t know it’s there.
Rumpolt calls for pea broth as the cooking and serving liquid. Pea broth in a 16th-century German kitchen was the default vegetable-fast cooking liquid, kept on hand the way a modern restaurant kitchen keeps chicken or veal stock — a source of umami-rich liquid available for any dish that wanted it. I didn’t have time to make pea broth on site for the competition, so I substituted chicken broth, with the understanding that the swap moves the dish away from the fast-day intent of the original. For a Lenten redaction, the pea broth would be the only appropriate option.
The “give it dry” option in the source — lift the ravioli from the broth and dress with grated bread, parmesan, and hot butter for a crispy effect — is the version I went with, since it produces a more dramatic plated dish for a competition. Rumpolt explicitly says both versions are appropriate.
Spinach Ravioli with Ginger and Mace
Pasta filled with blanched spinach, parmesan, breadcrumbs, butter, herbs, and egg yolks; seasoned with ginger and mace; simmered in broth and dressed with hot butter, more parmesan, and toasted breadcrumbs. Rumpolt’s Zugemüß 200.
Ingredients
- For the pasta dough:
2 cups all-purpose flour
4 eggs
1 tsp salt
- For the filling:
10 oz fresh spinach
2 egg yolks
1/4 stick (2 tbsp) butter, softened
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs
1 cup grated parmesan (plus more for finishing)
1/2 cup mixed chopped fresh tarragon and basil (substituting for chervil)
1/4 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground mace
Salt, sparingly
- For cooking and dressing:
Chicken broth or pea broth, enough to simmer the ravioli
A handful of fresh basil leaves
1/2 stick (4 tbsp) butter, for finishing
1/4 cup breadcrumbs, for toasting
Additional grated parmesan, for finishing
Directions
- Make the pasta dough:
- Mix flour and salt. Make a well, add eggs, and incorporate gradually.
- Knead until smooth, sprinkling with a little water if too dry. Wrap in a damp kitchen towel and rest while preparing the filling.
- Make the filling and assemble:
- Blanch the spinach in boiling salted water for 30–60 seconds, drain, shock in cold water, squeeze very dry, and chop finely.
- Combine spinach with parmesan, butter, breadcrumbs, herbs, ginger, mace, egg yolks, and a small pinch of salt. Mix well.
- Roll out the pasta thin enough to be slightly translucent. Use a ravioli form or hand-cut: spoon filling onto the rolled sheet, top with a second sheet, press out air pockets, and cut. Seal edges firmly.
- Cook the ravioli:
- Bring the broth to a gentle simmer (not a rolling boil — the ravioli will burst). Add basil leaves.
- Add the ravioli one at a time. Simmer 3–4 minutes, until they float and the pasta is tender.
- Dress the pasta:
- Lift the ravioli from the broth with a slotted spoon and arrange in a serving dish. Top with grated parmesan.
- Melt the finishing butter in a small pan and heat until it sizzles. Add breadcrumbs and toast until golden brown.
- Pour the breadcrumb butter over the pasta and serve immediately.