Russian Rye

What, Where, When

  • This is a plausibly-medieval recipe for black bread made solely of rye flour with no additional wheat or other additives. 
  • It is based on modern techniques, while avoiding blatantly New World ingredients and approaches.

Discussion

Bread is the most commonly mentioned food in the Primary Chronicle. 

Rye was the most commonly found grain in the 11th-12th century layers in digs in Novgorod, and references exist to its use in both porridges and breads. I wanted to serve it as a bread, but most modern recipes for “Russian Black Bread’ include a high proportion of wheat flour and / or a variety of modern and/or New World ingredients such as cocoa and molasses to give the bread the characteristic color, sweetness and tang. These clearly won’t do for a 100% rye, plausibly early Rus bread.

In further research, I found two methods for achieving this. One was slow baking to make a “Pumpernickel” style loaf, with up to a 14 hour baking time in a covered pan. While I think this was not an unreasonable idea, and initial experiments with this type of baking produced interesting results, it simply wasn’t practical for an SCA feast of this size.

The second involves “scalding” the rye flour before allowing an overnight fermentation – this produced a dark, dense bread with sweet notes (from the rye) and sour notes (from the sourdough). The technique was found in a modern British newspaper comparing several rye bread recipes .

Russian Rye (Single Loaf)

A 100% rye sourdough scalded-flour loaf, dense and dark with sweet and sour notes. Plausibly-medieval technique for a Rus-style black bread, using no wheat, cocoa, or molasses.

Ingredients

  • 500g rye flour

  • 10g salt

  • 400ml boiling water (for the scald)

  • 50g rye berries, coarsely cracked (pulse briefly in a food processor or spice grinder)

  • 240g (about 1 cup) active 100% hydration rye sourdough starter

  • 1 tbsp honey

  • 50-100ml additional water, as needed

Directions

  • Make the scald: whisk the rye flour and salt together in a large bowl, then pour over the boiling water and mix into a thick, stiff paste. Cover and let cool until touchable — about an hour.
  • Add the cracked rye (dry), starter, and honey to the cooled paste. Mix to combine, then add additional water a little at a time — just enough for the dough to come together. Rye dough is sticky and will not feel like wheat dough; expect a heavy, tacky mass rather than a smooth ball.
  • Knead in a stand mixer with the dough hook for about 5 minutes, until smooth and well-mixed. It will not develop a satiny gluten surface the way wheat dough does.
  • Flour a baking sheet or proofing basket. Shape the dough into a round, smoothing the surface and tucking the bottom edge under. Place on the prepared surface, cover with a damp towel, and let rise overnight at room temperature.
  • The next day, preheat the oven to 425°F. Place an empty pan on the lower rack and bring a kettle of water to a boil. (If your oven has a steam function, use that instead.)
  • Flip the dough onto a fresh baking sheet or piece of parchment, floured side up. Slash the top with a sharp knife or lame.
  • Put the bread in the oven, pour the boiling water into the lower pan, and close the oven quickly to trap the steam.
  • Bake for about 35 minutes, until the loaf is well-browned, sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, and reaches an internal temperature of at least 210°F. The internal temperature matters more than color or time — a dense rye can look done before it actually is.
  • Cool completely on a rack before slicing. Rye is best eaten the day after baking — the crumb sets up and the flavor deepens. Slice thinly; it is a dense bread meant to be eaten in modest portions, often with smoked fish, butter, or cultured dairy.

Sources

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