This was served as part of the first course at the Ymir 2023 feast.
Introduction
Flavored butters — plain, sage, and cinnamon — made from scratch using cultured cream. I prefer making butter for feasts rather than buying it; cultured butter has a noticeably richer flavor, and while you can buy cultured butter commercially, it’s expensive. Making it from cream and yogurt cultured overnight is straightforward and produces a better product for the cost.
Source
Sir Hugh Plat, Delightes for ladies… (1602)
How to make sundry sorts of most daintie butter, hauing a liuely taste of Sage, Cinamon, Nutmegs, Mace, &c. This is done by mixing a fewe drops of the extracted oyle of Sage, Cinamon, Nutmegs, Mace, &c, in the making vp of your butter: for oyle and butter will incorporat and agree very kindely and naturallie together. And how to make the said oyles, with all necessarie vessels, instruments & other circumstances by a most plaine & familiar description, See my Iewel house of Art and nature vnder the Title of distillation.
Discussion
- The cream was mixed with yogurt and left to culture in a warm place overnight, then chilled for two hours before churning. After draining and washing, the butter was lightly salted and divided into three portions — one left plain, one flavored with sage extract, one with cinnamon extract.
- I used purchased extracts rather than the distilled oils Plat describes, not having a still to hand. Plat does, however, document the period method for producing these oils: his Jewel House of Art and Nature includes instructions for cinnamon water (recipe 117, p. 165), herb extraction via alcohol distillation (recipe 118), and straight distillation of essential oils from herbs and spices (recipe 105, “manner of drawing or extracting the oils out of herbs and spices”). .
- The butter was plated in divided portions so diners could try each flavor. Plain butter was the largest portion, as not everyone is adventurous.
Compound Butters
Cultured butter churned from cream and yogurt, divided into plain, sage, and cinnamon varieties. Adapted from Plat’s directions for flavoring butter with extracted oils.
Ingredients
4 c heavy cream
3 tbsp plain yogurt
1/2 tsp kosher salt, divided
Sage extract, a few drops to taste
Cinnamon extract, a few drops to taste
Directions
- Mix cream and yogurt in a clean container. Cover loosely and leave in a warm place overnight to culture — the cream should thicken and develop a tangy smell.
- Chill the cultured cream in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours before churning.
- Churn the cream (stand mixer, food processor, or dedicated churn) until the butter separates cleanly from the buttermilk.
- Drain off the buttermilk (save for baking). Rinse the butter with cold water, pressing out any remaining buttermilk until the rinse runs clear.
- Divide the butter into three portions: one larger portion for plain butter, two smaller portions for flavored. Salt each portion lightly.
- Work a few drops of sage extract into one flavored portion, and cinnamon extract into the other. Adjust to taste — a little goes a long way.
- Plate in three separate mounds or portions so diners can try each flavor.
Sources
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Plat, Hugh, and Arnold Boate. The Jevvel House of Art and Nature : Containing Divers Rare and Profitable Inventions, Together with Sundry New Experiments in the Art of Husbandry : With Divers Chimical Conclusions Concerning the Art of Distillation, and the Rare Practises and Uses Thereof. Faithfully and Familiarly Set down, According to the Authours Own Experience. With Getty Research Institute, London : Printed by Bernard Alsop, ..., 1653. Internet Archive, http://archive.org/details/jevvelhouseofart00plat.
Plat, Hugh. Delightes for Ladies to Adorne Their Persons, Tables, Closets, and Distillatories with Beauties, Banquets, Perfumes and Waters. 1602. COinS, http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A09713.0001.001.
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